Economics/Class Relations

‘The Kids’ Menus of the Ruling Class’

At their best, restaurants are spaces for role-playing: Spend a night at a Parisian brasserie, a Tokyo omakase counter, or, as our diner-at-large E. Alex Jung did over the past couple of weeks, inside the very real Manhattan of .01 percenters that the fictional Roy family inhabits on Succession. It’s a world where grade-schoolers show up to caviar dens wearing Thom Browne, where the dining rooms smell like fresh-cut lilies, and where the food options are uniformly pedestrian. Armed with advice from the show’s official “wealth consultant,” Alex dined on burgers, baked potatoes, and hot-fudge sundaes alongside the city’s captains of industry.

— Alan Sytsma, food editor, New York

The Kids’ Menus of the Ruling Class What would Shiv Roy think of the Polo Bar?

Photo: Johannes Arlt/laif/Redux

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