‘How TikTok Took Over New York Restaurant Menus,’

In the 1920s, when cheese-makers in Southern Italy first turned leftover cream and mozzarella scraps into a new kind of cheese called burrata, they couldn’t have imagined that, a century later, it would land on nearly every menu in New York because its exploding, oozy center plays so well on TikTok. Right now, restaurant food is absolutely dripping in cheese, glistening sauce, and still-liquid egg yolk, transforming traditional food porn’s most appealing details into something that is almost cartoonishly crude. Why? As Ezra Marcus discovered, it’s because many chefs are almost too eager to tap into the tremendous marketing potential of influencers who — for now — want nothing more than a free (and visually stimulating!) meal in return.

—Alan Sytsma, food editor, New York 

Cheesier, Saucier, and Drowning in Caviar How TikTok took over the menu.

Photo: Hugo Yu

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